Stages of drawing L-to-R, start to finish
Categories: Products; Instruction and information; Jewelry
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I don't have a dedicated webpage for Viking knit chains yet.
I make them with one-wire construction (precious metals only)
and aesthetic clasps.
Inquire
if you want one or need more information.
HISTORY - They can be traced back to the 10th century.
Legend has it they were used as a means to stash treasure by making
something beautiful.
CLASSIFICATION - The term for this type of chain is trichinopoly.
They are broadly classified by the
number of previous loops the wire passes through, which is usually one to three,
and how many sides, which is usually three to six.
Specific metrics would have to address the starting size mandrel,
diameter drawn down to, wire diameter, vertical length between loops, and more.
PROCESS - Wire is woven around a mandrel to ensure the diameter is consistent.
It helps align and maintain spacing/orientation between loops and tame the wire.
Long wires are unwieldy so it's common practice to use shorter
sections that are anchored near the existing wire. Unfortunately, it leaves
deformed transitions with protruding, prickly wires.
Precious metals should be a continuous wire.
Either struggle with a long one or solder/weld on a new length as needed.
It's a disservice to call it jewelry otherwise.
APPEARANCE - Most chains are round-ish. All factors in CLASSIFICATION
affect how it looks. It can be airy or dense. Similarities to
loop-in-loop chains
are visual only. Multiple-loop versions have
longer lead-ins (tapers) before the weave proper starts.
The end is always abrupt.
MATERIALS - Anything more costly than silver is really a waste
as the weaves aren't good enough.
Thin wires (22ga and higher) are malleable enough to
withstand the abuse and torture. Many metals could work but
spring-temper or hardened wire is uncooperative.
Painted, enameled, plated, or coated wires
will degrade.
PRECISION - Almost none required.
These are by far the most forgiving chains.
Only by intention could they be made so poorly that they wouldn't
look OK. However, there is a HUGE difference between OK and exceptional
so conscientious artisans will strive for perfection.
DRAWPLATE - The drawplate is a necessary evil. It lengthens, smooths, homogenizes,
compresses, and gives rigidity to the chain. Wood and plastic drawplates are best.
ENDCAPS & CLASPS - A sleeve or cap covers the end
and is soldered or mechanically fastened.
Long end caps are an annoying focal point. It's a chain, not a ferrule on steroids!
The logical solution is cutting off the tapered section entirely
so the chain is uniform.
Having an asymmetrical chain screams no talent and looks the part.
Jewelry demands symmetry and uniformity in a chain like this.
A wise artist avoids commercial endcaps and clasps altogether. Don't ruin a handmade chain
with them.
Whatever, however, and why-ever, as long as they are secure, look good, don't
fall apart, and aren't bulky.
SUMMARY - Viking Knits are a quick-and-easy chain.
Those meant for jewelry should be made to the highest standards.
Silver Viking Knit chains are everywhere but
I have yet to see another one made properly as described herein.
Not here - compromises are not part of my jewelry.
Posted by M: June 26, 2022
Please email any thoughts or comments regarding this post.
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