Hammered bracelets
Synclastic (T), anticlastic (B)
Categories: Products; Instruction and information; Jewelry
Word count/read time: 419 words; 2 minutes
And synners will be punished brutally in the afterlife! Who knew such a microcosm
of jewelry design could have such religious undertones? Seriously, this is about synclastic and anticlastic
shapes. They are quite common in jewelry and throughout the natural world.
Synclastic designs can be found
here
and anticlastic ones
here.
How are the two shapes defined? It all has to do with the curve. Does it challenge the movement
and disrupt an existing flow (anticlastic)? Or is it like water and yields to the inertia,
a shape with one direction and purpose (synclastic)? Sounds a bit new-age hippie weirdness but
it's simple.
Both are easy to imagine after seeing the webpages.
Imagine a hollow donut (torus). Lay it down like the letter 'O'
but do not cut it like a bagel.
Instead, cut it into inner and outer sections (the circular cut is perpendicular
at the thickest part). It'll make two pieces.
An anticlastic shape would be made from
the inner one and a synclastic, the outer.
The 3D shape introduces a significant structural component;
less material can be used to get the necessary strength.
Lighter shapes mean less material which reduces the cost and makes it easier to work with.
Then again, sometimes you want that
bullion bracelet,
let it be a lead weight.
This strengthening effect can be seen everywhere. Automobiles have large
swaths of thin metal veneering them. Without reliefs, lines, and waves the body panels would
buckle or dent with the slightest push. It adds an aesthetic appeal, too.
In nature, a snail's shell is fascinating, as are countless other animal creations.
Making jewelry with these shapes is normally done by forging (hammering) a strip
of metal around or within a mandrel or die.
The metal must stretch and compress so it's more involved than hitting it
a few times. It will need to be worked gradually and annealed as necessary.
Another method uses a hydraulic press, dies, and specialty rubber pads.
Yep, expensive. A strip of metal
placed within the assembly gets crushed into place, i.e. whatever shape the die is.
It is at least 20x quicker than old-school methods. With minimal training
a person can produce consistent, quality items immediately.
Aside from functional limitations, shapes can be combined.
Any designs can co-mingle with another. The possibilities are limitless,
truly, so enjoy some classics that I've selected. What you want is either
here, or you can describe it as a mixture of elements
from multiple pieces. Your imagination can run free after that.
Posted by M: March 27, 2022
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