Gyrogami Blog - Precious Metals, Jewelry, Artwork

Kumihimo Chains

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Categories: Instruction and information; Jewelry

Word count/read time: 468 words; 2 minutes

HISTORY - Kumihimo is the Japanese art of making braids and cords. While it mostly refers to textiles (yarn), it encompasses braided wire as well.

CLASSIFICATION - It will have a geometric profile (round), be as thin as a flat braid would allow, or somewhere in between the two. The number of wire sections, each of which might have 1-5 or more strands, and the braiding pattern determine how it will look and feel.

PROCESS - Wires are braided or woven around a mandrel. Often, a plate or holder keeps everything organized and ensures the weave is consistent. A continuous wire is preferred though it's possible to use multiple sections. However, these wires have to be anchored somewhere which creates an inherent weak spot and an ugly, noticeable transition.

WEAVES - The world is your oyster! There are so many combinations between wire size, profile, color, weave type, number of strands, number of wires in each strand, their orientation within the strand, how they are woven, etc. You could make a new style every day.

Round weaves are often hollow which means they are more subject to crushing forces or dents. They are generally rigid and act like a cable with structure and "memory." Therefore, they will need to be bent into the desired shape.

MATERIALS - They are novelty items so most of the common craft wires work fine; avoid hardened and tempered ones. These are great for colored wire (anodized, not enameled), kids' projects, etc. Embellish them with beads. Silver is the most expensive metal you'd consider and it must have some WOW! It's almost a waste.

PRECISION - Each strand and bundle must be meticulously arranged to look cohesive. This weave looks horrible if made poorly. Everything is exposed so mistakes and inconsistencies are glaring. It's not as forgiving as a Viking Knit. Fortunately, adults and kids alike have the skills to make them perfect with effort and diligence.

DRAWPLATE - It could create an interesting effect but they're supposed to be left undoctored. Kumihimo wasn't made for wire so it's uncharted territory.

ENDCAPS & CLASPS - Wires are prone to separating, unwrapping, or becoming uneven near the ends. After they are doctored up they will be covered with caps. The caps can be crimped or glued/epoxied but a jewelry-quality chain would likely be soldered or have a sleek mechanical fastener. Whatever, however, and why-ever, as long as they are secure, look good, and function properly.

SUMMARY - It's an interesting method chain making. Youngsters can whet their hands in a cool craft with limitless colors and possibilities. These chains are essentially novelty items. Making jewelry-quality chains using precious metals better be damn damn good and impressively unique. I'm not sure if they will be part of my portfolio though it's a good skill nonetheless.

Posted by M: June 10, 2024

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