Replaced link in purse 1.6mm I.D., 0.5mm wire
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Word count/read time: 353 words; 1-1/2 minutes
Repair parts for
sterling silver mesh purses popular in the early 20th century flapper era are not commercially available.
All parts and supplies must be harvested from pre-existing pieces or made from scratch.
Prior to 1912 these were hand-woven...I can only imagine the tedium
from spending a day behind the magnifier.
Several problems result from micromaille:
- 27ga to 31ga wire is not something available in the usual channels
- If it isn't sterling or pure silver it'll have to be custom made
- The tiny mandrel must be sturdy
- Cutting the coil requires entirely new methods
- The pliers or tweezers may be too large to be used effectively
- Soldering can be a challenge
The most difficult task is weaving a ring into already-made mesh.
Each ring has to go through four others (assuming the pattern is
the European 4-in-1 version, which most purses are). Rings close to the frame are the worst
because the mesh is stationary, tight, and there is limited space to maneuver.
Did I forget step 4a, which is figuring out how to hold the purse and ring simultaneously? Or
step 4b which is keeping the ring positioned while trying to grasp it?
There was a step 5c or 6a somewhere. Who would've thought opening
a ring a certain way would matter so much!
The next problem is closing a ring that is smaller than a peppercorn.
Even the smallest gap will let other rings slip through, making it all for naught.
With a little practice it's possible to hum along at the
rate of one ring every few minutes.
A micro-TIG can weld small links if they're accessible.
So could soldering or brazing. Or laser and plasma welding.
As the temperatures increase so does the possibility of collateral damage.
Everything I've been doing so far has
worked on regular micromaille purses, the smallest using 0.3mm to 0.35mm wire with 1.6mm inner diameter
rings. Today, an Austrian 0.800 silver mesh purse showed up.
There are more than 16,000 rings per ounce!
At least 1/3 of the weight is the mesh so that's more than 50,000 rings.
Posted by M: December 21, 2015
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