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Gold What?!

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Categories: Instruction and information; Jewelry; Ethics and laws

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As a warning from my experiences dealing with precious metals, assume the (silver, gold) you are buying is fake.

Most of us are familiar with gold markings including 10k, 14k, 18k, and others. Solid, pure gold is 24k and any number less than this represents the number of units per given weight that is composed of gold (18k is 18/24). Some countries mark it as a decimal. Ergo, 10k would be 0.417. Alloying agents don't matter as long as it assays correctly.

In the USA until recently, it must have been at least 10k to be called gold. Now, as long as it is clearly identified and marked, any gold alloy may be sold. In the UK, it can be as low as 9k gold.

Gold plated can have several markings including EGP, HGE, GP, GEP, and HGP. Minimum thickness standards and purity requirements are established by law. The layer can be quite thin and wear away quickly. While gold is one of the least reactive metals (from an oxidation standpoint) the base metals may "peek" through the surface.

Anything with a hint of gold on it can be called gold-washed. The legality of gold layered, gold overlay, and similar terms may be the manufacturer's interpretation. Don't bank on an appreciable gold content.

Vermeil is legally required to be sterling silver with a 10k gold layer of a certain thickness. Some companies may be stingy with their gold but it will last much longer than simple plating.

Gold-filled isn't filled with any gold at all! Gold is mechanically bonded to a base metal. It is the thickest "coating" method. Unless soldered perfectly, the base metal could oxidize and shed the gold as it deteriorates. Legal markings include 12K GF 1/20, 14K GF 1/10, or 14/20 GF. The karat number is the gold used for the coating. The second number, usually 1/10 or 1/20, refers to the fractional weight of the gold in the given piece.

Some quick math should help explain it:

Bracelet weighs 15 grams
Made with 14k 1/10
The weight of the 14k gold is 1/10 of the 15 grams, so 1.5 grams of 14k gold

To get the actual gold weight (AGW), take the karat decimal (14/24 = 0.583) and multiply it by the gold alloy content (1.5 grams). The 1.5 grams of 14k gold yields 0.875 grams of pure gold (15 grams x 1/10 x 14/24). Gold-filled items can be a bonanza for the astute buyer!

Rolled gold is like gold-filled except it has less gold, say 1/50 instead of 1/10 or 1/20. Basically, anything less than 1/20 weight of gold is rolled gold plate. Karatage should be stamped on the piece along with Rolled Gold Plate or RGP.

When it comes to karat gold there is some leeway for soldered pieces, just as there is for soldered silver. However, 24k gold ("pure" gold) should not be confused with 0.999+ fine gold bullion as there is no wiggle room with gold bullion.

Posted by M: May 7, 2017

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