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Cutting Jump Rings

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Categories: Instruction and information; Jewelry

Word count/read time: 426 words; 2 minutes

While there are just a few ways to make good jump rings, there are limitless ways to do the opposite. Therefore, this is about saw-cut rings using a jeweler's saw or equivalent. Cutting your own doesn't guarantee anything but it's a positive step towards exceptional quality control and a legitimate handmade good.

Novelty items and costume accessories use pinch- or shear-cut rings, but not jewelry. It's about function and fashion. Science, math, and physics show why they are unsuitable so don't dispute the facts: jagged edges, stretched and deformed rings, razor splinters. Some nippers and shears are kinder but they still destroy the rings.

Micromaille will throw a wrench into any method. Mini-me doesn't play nice. It will be demanding and frustrating, the tininess a mere sampling of the upcoming aggravation. There are suppliers for "bigger" micromaille rings. If you happen to repair sterling silver mesh or chainmaille purses, you have to go it alone.

Jump rings can be ruined before they are even started. Fresh wire has to settle before handling. Spooled wire must be unrolled properly or it will twist. Coiling the wire carelessly will cause size fluctuations and roundness issues.

Saw blades seem to get dull or break so often that pricy ones can be difficult to justify. There seems to be less difference in saw frames. With choices ranging from shallow to deep frames, select the smallest one for the job to ensure the best outcome.

Cutting a straight line that is also perpendicular to the coil is challenging. Uneven cuts happen quickly, don't look good, and prevent the ring from closing properly. However they're cut, the blade must be straight.

When cutting on the mandrel, the coil might have to be anchored or secured. Sometimes a slightly larger mandrel can be used for cutting. A sloppy coil is an invitation for gaffed rings and pulled coils.

If the saw blade is removed from the coil, re-positioning it the exact same isn't easy. A pinched or broken blade is sure to follow. If flesh is nearby it could result in an unpleasant experience. Don't let rings jingle on the blade because they will get scratched as they bounce around.

Hardened stainless steel and its evil metallic siblings can be cut by hand with a jeweler's saw. Using perfect technique, of course, which is fleeting at best. Still, it's a lesson in futility because it's damn slow and goes through blades faster than the wet on rain. Save the hassle and get some good commercial saw-cut ones or use specialty ring/coil cutting equipment.

Posted by M: July 21, 2018

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