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Chainmail Buyer's Guide, Part 4

The Pink Elephants of Chainmail

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Categories: Instruction and information; Messages and statements; Jewelry

FACT: The biggest causes of poorly closed rings are laziness and junk rings (anything that's not saw-cut). Only a fool with cognitive defects would say or think otherwise since the math and science of a properly closed ring are indisputable.

The voice of reason can be spoken in a language everyone understands but it involves exchanging information some are unwilling to accept or acknowledge. How could anything addressing quality leave out the things that define quality? When a ruler measures something it's not being critical. It's a scientific fact.

Making good chainmaille is easy. Basically, a ten-year-old could nearly master the art with enthusiasm alone. Adults can reach a similar level provided they take the time and use high-quality raw materials. It seems to be the opposite.

It's easy to succumb to the trappings of conventional maille with bad rings and poor assembly. Literally everyone else is doing it so no one says anything. There is safety in numbers especially when it involves slacking off. There's no shame in being a sub-par manufacturer; you'll fit right in.

The few who actually practice quality are an anomaly and dismissed as eccentric, like making high-end products is somehow a scornful trait. That's shameful.

BAD CLOSURES: Closing rings is the basic principle and arguably the only thing that's important during assembly. When nothing else matters, have you mastered the most basic step?

How bad must a closure be before qualifying as a ring incident? If a zero-tolerance approach is too hardcore then what percent is OK? Relaxing the tolerances has an exponential effect on quality: 10% here, 10% there, another 10% and it's down to 0% quality in no time.

Bad closures are a cosmetic and functional faux pas. They will cut flesh and snag fabric. The movement of rings is seriously compromised and they might fall out. It's not part of the character or charm as some would say.

The test for a proper closure is whether the ring can be soldered along the entire face of the cut. Do the ends align properly? Do they even fully touch? Are the faces parallel to each other? A bad closure is plain as day and there's no arguing about it.

ANYTHING OTHER THAN SAW-CUT RINGS: Just to clear the air immediately: YOU ARE A POSER IF YOU USE ANYTHING OTHER THAN PROPER SAW-CUT RINGS IN ANY OF YOUR DESIGNS. YOU DO NOT VALUE QUALITY. YOU MAKE UGLY, DANGEROUS PRODUCTS. IF YOU SAY OTHERWISE YOU ARE A LIAR, TOO. END OF DISCUSSION!

Shear-cut rings are made by causing the material to fail. The material fails when it has been stretched or pushed beyond its physical limits. The ring is pre-deformed. There may be as little as 1% ring surfaces touching, consisting of a tiny sliver that juts out from each end.

While there is little stigma associated with them - some supposed professionals vehemently defend them - they will never make decent products. Your true skill will never show. If you deny the science of something so simple and clearly defined as a pinch-cut ring then best of luck.

No one who uses these abominations will admit to these FACTS. It would mean admitting they have been using inferior raw materials and other things. For the extra fraction of a penny each rings costs, there is no excuse.

Some have bestowed as virtues the very factors that make pinch- and shear-cut rings unacceptable. One claimed their rings are cut so good that you don't even have to close them to get a good closure. They stress how much time you'll save not having to do quality work, i.e. "waste time" closing rings fully. His website is a vast source of mistruths.

Fashion has usurped maille's originally intended function as armor. Fashion is about beauty and aesthetics. If jewelry is supposed to be pleasing to the eyes and assumed to be safe for flesh and fabric alike, then pinch-cut rings have no place. Don't confuse novelty accessories with real jewelry.

THE THINGS WE DO (or don't do): These are intrinsic factors that can't be measured with numbers. It also pertains to being objective with your goods, workmanship, skills, etc. Last would be the manner in which you conduct yourself behind closed doors and how honorable your actions are.

Improper or low-quality materials, sloppy weaves, and more affect the retail experience. How appealing is a slovenly peddler with food-stained and ripped clothes, reeking of cigarettes and booze?

What about the words and literature that accompany some of these pieces? Modern technology makes it easy to use a spell checker. Do you act like a sleazy salesman or an educated vendor?

Defending others' illegal behaviors makes you worse because you are knowingly doing it whereas the one you are defending may just be an ignorant fool who doesn't know better. If you deny science and defend things which are proven to be bad (like saw-cut rings, bad closures, etc.) then you are part of the problem.

We are all adults and have long since passed the kindergarten a-trophy-for-everyone mentality because that's what we end up with...kindergarten quality. Let's rock this world at a third or fourth grade level at least!

Confidence does not equal competence. Experience does not equal competence. Valuing quality does not equal competence. Misrepresenting products does not equal competence. The public expects these behaviors from us and will be looking for any justification to support this stereotype. Disappoint them by showing some integrity instead!

THE SOCIAL MEDIA FALLACY: Social media hasn't helped. People band together in their little echo chambers and keep quiet to avoid a cyber-lynching. One risks being a pariah by speaking up, threatening their influencer status, number of followers, etc. It's counter-productive to improvement. Too many comments start with some manifestation of "I've never done that, seen it, heard of it, or know anyone who has but...." STFU!

Circle the wagons mentality has got to end! Defending someone who is breaking the law is inexcusable. Support someone who has spoken up with a like or comment if you don't have the courage to forge ahead on your own.

FINAL THOUGHTS: If any of this bothers you, direct your anger where it belongs - YOU - and stop scapegoating anyone else. It's science. These are facts, not judgments. Stop your denial, social media whining, and lies and everything will make sense. Or continue drinking the koolaid.

I wish none of the above had any credence. I asked an artist friend for an outsider's view on the maille community. Suffice it to say her colorful words included mention of gypsies and carnies.

Posted by M: October 29, 2016

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