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Bigger Isn't Always Better

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There is a family of weaves that is more intense than regular chainmail and might even be mistaken for a full braid, plait, or Viking knit variation. They are collectively called loop-in-loop chains. Variations in link shape alone can keep one busy for a lifetime exploring all the possibilities. See my webpage or blog entry for more details.

Loop-in-loop is the next step in chain link jewelry. It is a rarity that will appeal to the masses and then some, a product that can only be handmade. Though delicate-looking, these are among the strongest chains for their size due to forged and intertwining links.

One major difference from regular chainmail is the precision. There are additional steps, each one progressively more difficult with many places to introduce errors. It will be impossible to do it well without rock-solid "good closures" often neglected in regular chainmaille.

Elongating/stretching (welded or soldered) rings inevitably causes variations within a batch unless precisely done in a jig. Still, the rings have to be woven into place by hand. A crooked ring will cause troubles for five or more links, clearly showing a lack precision and symmetry.

After seeing how nice a 2S-1L and 2S-2L looked, would more sides and loops mean better aesthetics? So it seemed reasonable to make samples of 1S-1L to 4S-5L to find the magic spot. Adding some extras for variety meant nearly 20 samples.

Having previously thought of double-digit aspect ratios in the abstract, a 46 was ludicrous. In the biggest oxymoron, the 0.5mm wire size makes it micromaille but the rings are nearly 1" in diameter! The lesson, evident by the 4S-1L, was that a tightly woven 4-sided loop-in-loop is very stiff and begins to get in its own way.

When using a drawplate as often happens with these weaves, a loose weave works best. It evens out somewhat as it's repeatedly squeezed through smaller holes. Relying on the drawplate and a loose weave is not reassuring because it will only come out so good. It can remain raw and still look like it was made by the gods so drawplates are questionable.

Secretly I was hoping the 4S-5L loop-in-loop would prompt me to go even bigger. Fail. It was so tight it'd take a 10ft chain to make a circular loop, never mind any wearable jewelry. While more sides and more loops may not have been a resounding success for the samples, I know an 8S-8L is possible if....

Posted by M: August 28, 2017

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